Sketches of Spain
The Boathouse on Grand draws upon local, international influences

With a cidery, packraft business, new artist spaces and new trail system, some may be wondering, is Mancos having a moment?

Well, if the latest restaurant in town is any indication, then the answer is yes.

Last October, The Boathouse on Grand opened its doors on the eponymous main drag in what could be called downtown Mancos. And while new to this town of roughly 1,110, the Boathouse is hardly new to the restaurant scene. Local foodies will remember it from its stint at Electra Lake from 2017-19. Although the restaurant received rave reviews for the inventive and exquisite cuisine of Chef Dave Stewart, it was forced to close the summer of 2019 when the lake was drained for dam repair.

“We had no water at the restaurant,” explained Jenn, wife of Dave and front-of-house maven. “We’ve been searching for a place ever since.” 

And much to the delight of local diners, the Boathouse found a home in Mancos at 115 Grand Ave. The space was formerly occupied by Olio, another highly regarded restaurant that closed in 2022.

“We never really closed, we just relocated,” said Jenn of the move west to the M.C. “For the past three years, people kept asking, ‘When is the Boathouse reopening?’ Finally, I can say, ‘Yeah, we reopened … in Mancos.’”

With the closing of Olio, not to mention a local hamburger restaurant and the Millwood Junction years ago, Dave said there was a real void – and golden opportunity – in the town’s restaurant scene.

“It was pretty limited for dining for a while, so I think people are excited there’s more options,” he said. 

And it’s safe to say, Electra’s loss is Mancos’ gain. Stewart’s 30-year career in restaurants reads like a who’s who of fine dining. In addition to 10-plus years at Seasons in Durango (where he met Jenn, who was a baker) he also cheffed at the now-defunct Cyprus Cafe, Primi and Dunton Hot Springs, and has also worked as a personal chef.

And while Dave has the chops for high-end fine dining, he and Jenn emphasize they want the Boathouse to be a hub for the Mancos community – where they recently relocated from Durango after one too many late-night drives home.

“We’re still just a friendly local neighborhood restaurant,” said Jenn. “People come in and get a bowl of soup and a glass of wine and call it good.”

But there is definitely an international, old world flair at the Boathouse as well. The menu and decor are prominently influenced by the couple’s travels abroad, notably Spain – where they honeymooned and return to regularly. 

“Working in restaurants, we would work our asses off straight for six months and then have the time and money to travel,” said Jenn.

And although they traveled extensively throughout Europe, Spain – particularly the south of Spain – was one area they returned to again and again.

“I love the food; I love the wine,” said Jenn. “So we brought some of our favorite things from there, here.”

For starters, the Boathouse has a whole keg (!) of sherry from Manzanilla, Spain. And if the thought of sherry conjures images of cooking wine or some sort of sweet, fortified nightmare – you are missing out. This is the real deal – a straw-colored dry wine that Jenn describes as salty, light and crisp. (Yes, I sampled it at 11 a.m., but in Spain, they drink all day long. At least that’s what I’ve heard.)

“We’re teaching people. A lot of people don’t know or haven’t been exposed to Manzanilla sherry,” said Jenn.

And, as it turns out, it’s a great way to kick off your meal or evening (or morning) out.

“It’s a great starter with olives, nuts or ham,” said Dave.

Yes, ham, otherwise known as jamón in Spain, where it is ubiquitous and served for breakfast, lunch, linner and dinner. Jamón is featured prominently on the Boathouse menu as well – but this is no honey-baked, pineapple-studded, salt-drenched abomination, mind you. The Boathouse features what could be called artisanal bone-in hams – one from a farm in Virginia and the other from the motherland, in Jabugo, Spain. Known as Iberico ham, it comes from hogs that forage on – no lie – acorns from the forest floor. (And no, you cannot order it on Amazon. At least not the good stuff.)

“It’s one of the most delicious things in the world,” said Dave, a man who no doubt has known some delicious things in his life. “It’s richer, darker, more intensely flavored than prosciutto.”

In addition to the jamón – which is always prominently hanging Euro-style in the restaurant (don’t worry, it’s cured for several months) – the Boathouse offers otherworldly offerings. Its ever-rotating menu includes everything from Spanish anchovy toasts and fresh oysters to rabbit and wild Icelandic cod. (There are veggie options, too – including mushroom and leek risotto and a cheese plate to die for.)

With limited storage, Dave said he orders smaller quantities, which keeps the menu fresh and creative. And while there is much on the menu from overseas, he also strives to feature local products as much as possible when in season. He said he currently has enough produce from Montezuma County to get him through the end of the year, and gets his beef from a ranch in Hesperus and features cheese from James Ranch.

“My approach is local farm-to-table and the rest incorporating the best ingredients I can get from around the world,” he said.

And then there’s the wine list, which Jenn describes as “badass.” (And judging by how long it was, I will take her word for it.) That, like the food menu, is constantly rotating.

“We buy small quantities, just a couple bottles at a time,” Dave said. “It differs week to week. There’s just so much cool wine out there. We have a lot of stuff that maybe you won’t find on other lists in the area.”

The couple honed their wine chops during their multiple visits to Spain, where they frequently visited bodegas (which over there are sherry wineries and not somewhere you buy Taqis and get gas.)

“We’ve been to a lot of the bodegas featured on our list, so there’s really a personal connection,” he said.

And many of the folks who come in feel a personal connection, as well, Jenn said.

“We’ve had multiple locals come in and say, ‘We walked the Camino’ or ‘Our daughter lives in Madrid … Yes, give me a glass of vermouth and a slice of jamón.’”

And while the Boathouse definitely beckons far-off lands, it also has a warm, downhome feel.

“Last night was like locals night in here,” said Jenn, saying every table was full with neighbors and friends. There is even a communal table – affectionately known as the pig trough, because that’s what it was in a former life – where folks can share a meal. “We have people pop in just for a glass of vermouth and some oysters or dessert.”

If you feel like popping into the Boathouse – whether for manchego and sherry or a pan-roasted Iberico pork loin – they’re open for dinner Thursday - Sunday. But be forewarned, after an extensive building reno last summer (most of which they did themselves) and expending everything they had just to get the doors open, the Stewarts will be taking a much-needed break the first week  of January. “We’re going to regroup and figure out what the next three or four months look like,” said Dave. “As they say, I’m going to take some time to work on the business, not in it.”

Oh, and after working seven days a week for the last several months, there will be some down time, too. And, as anyone who has ever owned and run a restaurant can identify with, Jenn added, “I’m gonna take a nap.” ?