Midsummer night's cheese

The name pasta primavera may be stolen from the Italians and sound classy, but it turns out it was invented in Nova Scotia during the summer of 1975. Although translated it means “spring pasta,” we can prepare cheesy noodles with vegetables any time of year, with summer and fall probably being the best seasons to do so, because they offer more fresh produce than spring. We can even use American cheeses if we like, since ultimately, we are talking about mac ’n’ cheese with vegetables. And making the entire dish from scratch takes barely any longer than preparing the boxed, veg-less version.

A proper mac ’n’ cheese primavera has a smooth, non-lumpy cheese sauce and al dente vegetables. I don’t sprinkle it with breadcrumbs and bake it because that makes it difficult to control the cooking, and potential overcooking, of the vegetables.

The most common recipes for pasta primavera include tomato, bell pepper and other veggies from deeper into the summer, as well as broccoli and peas, which come earlier. Whichever you use, the essential task of this recipe is to cook the vegetables perfectly. The most reliable way of doing so is to steam the veggies separately, shock them in cold water to stop the cooking and keep them crisp, and add them to the almost-finished product.

Today’s recipe for Mac ’n’ Cheese Primavera features rounds of green and yellow zucchini and fresh herbs like parsley and/or basil. Because zucchini is the only vegetable I’m cooking, I don’t have to worry about overcooking some and undercooking others, so I’ll skip the steaming and briefly sauté the zukes before adding the noodles, fresh from the boiling water and still wet. The water from the noodles helps steam the zucchini in place, while we build the sauce on top with handfuls of shredded cheese.

You can use this recipe with whatever produce is available. Vegetables like peas and broccoli, which need at most a mere hint of cooking, can be incorporated the same way as the zucchini. Heartier veggies, like cauliflower or carrot, should be steamed before being tossed into the finished product.

This dish is also extremely flexible in regards to the types of cheeses you add.

Mac ’n’ Cheese Primavera alla Zucchine

Serves 6

1 pound pasta – preferably short, stubby and hollow, such as penne

1 pound zucchini, cut into rounds about a half-inch thick

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

3 cloves garlic, chopped

1 tablespoon mustard powder

1 teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon black pepper

¼ lemon, juice and zest

1 cup milk

¾ pound cheese, grated; I like a mix of sharp cheddar, orange cheddar and fontina

Salt – for the pasta water and seasoning

Fresh parsley and/or basil

Bring 4 quarts salted (about a tablespoon) water to a boil and cook the pasta. While the pasta is boiling, add zucchini, butter, oil and garlic to a deep pan or heavy-bottomed pot and sauté for about five minutes on low/medium heat. When the noodles are done, quickly drain and add to the zucchini, but don’t stir.

Sprinkle the mustard powder, nutmeg, garlic powder, black pepper, lemon juice and zest on top of the noodles, but don’t stir.

Add the milk and about a quarter of your grated cheese, and give it a stir. Add another quarter of the cheese and stir again. Keep adding the cheese and stirring in until it’s all in. Keep stirring until it turns into a glorious cheese sauce. If it’s too dry or starts to burn, turn down the heat and add more milk or pasta water to loosen it. Add salt to taste – it will need some, even if the cheese is salty. Top with fresh herbs and serve.