Righteous rice
Simple steps to becoming a jedi master of the versatile staple

As we approach the growing season, this is a good time to discuss rice, the ultimate blank slate. A rice dish is likely to be more compatible with whatever is in the garden or CSA box than any other carb. Flexibility is key, and rice is more flexible than most yoga instructors. 

When it comes to cooking rice, I consider myself something of a John Henry, the steel-driving man who could out- pound a steam driver. I may be nothing special with a sledgehammer, but I can cook rice better than any rice cooker. I don’t even measure. I just pour the rice from a 25-pound sack until it looks like enough. And then I stick my finger in it. Based on what my finger tells me, I might add more water or pour off excess.  

My rice finger senses its environment, comparing the relative depths of rice and water, and then notifies me. I realize, however, you might need a bit more than “stick your finger in the rice, and listen to what it reports.” Alas, I used a tape measure to reverse-engineer my technique, in order to translate what my submerged digit is looking for. 

But first, a few words about rice varieties. There is a bewildering number, each with different flavors, textures, colors and needs. The beauty of my technique is it works with any rice. White jasmine with its mesmerizing fragrance is my favorite. I also like white basmati, which is a bit more nutty, less floral, but just as intoxicating.  My preferred types are coated in a starchy powder, which I rinse off, so the rice is more fluffy and less sticky. 

As you read the following instructions, they may seem more complicated than just measuring out rice and water. But in the long run, the finger technique will save time and guesswork and help you vibe with whatever rice is on hand. So hang in there, push through the learning curve, and you will come out the other side as a legit rice master.

Directions: Add two or three-ish cups of rice to a small pot that has a tight-fitting lid, preferably glass, so you can monitor progress. Fill it with water, and stir. If the water turns cloudy, dump it out and add more. Repeat until the water stays clear. Then stick your finger in. According to my tape measure, the water depth should exceed the rice level by about 3/4 of an inch. 

Put the lid on, and turn the heat to high. When it reaches a boil, turn the heat down to medium. After about 10 minutes, the water will drop below the rice level, and the rice will puff up and begin to look done. Remove the lid, and pluck a grain from the top. If it tastes done, replace the lid, turn off the heat and let the rice peacefully come in for a landing. If it’s a little crunchy, stick a spoon straight down, and gently create a gap, so you can see how much water is left. If it’s almost gone, add a little more, like a half cup, and turn off the heat. The rice will still be hot enough to absorb that water and finish cooking. If it’s a lot crunchy, add maybe a cup, replace the lid, and cook a few more minutes on low. Whatever you do, don’t let it run out of water while the heat is on, or the rice will burn. 

A perfectly cooked batch of rice needs little else: a dash of seaweed sprinkles; a splash of soy sauce; or cooked veggies of your choice. Or try this recipe for a shoulder-season stir-fry. 

I’m leaving this recipe loose, because I don’t want to micromanage. As with the rice cooking, my goal is to set you free, not boss you around. I am here to teach you how to fish, so to speak, rather than simply hand you a fish – or send you to the store. I want you to create a rice-based meal with whatever you have on hand, and build flexibility as the season evolves. 

Since squash is still readily available, I decided to serve my rice with a carnival squash, which is easy to pan-fry. The thin skin is edible, so you don’t need to peel it, and the small seeds get crispy in the pan, adding texture.

Pan-fried Squash on Rice

2 servings 

1 lb carnival or delicata squash

3 tablespoons olive oil, butter, bacon or sesame oil. Or a combination 

¼ medium onion, minced. 

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons oyster sauce, fish sauce or soy sauce

White pepper if you have it, otherwise black pepper

Juice of a ¼ lemon or a tablespoon of rice wine, for acid

Cut the squash into ½-inch slices. Lay the slices on the cutting board, and chop into chunks.

Add oil and squash, including skin and seeds, to a heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat, and fry until the seeds begin to pop. Add the onion, stir, and cook until translucent. 

Deglaze the pan with the lemon juice or cooking wine.

Add the garlic, stir, and as soon as you smell the magical aroma of garlic cooking, add the oyster sauce and white or black pepper. Stir, and serve with you-know-what. (Hint: it rhymes with “nice.”)