Take it Caprese
Savor the best of late summer with Caprese (and not-so Caprese)

by Ari LeVaux

Caprese is a simple dish. Yet the mere combination of tomato, basil and mozzarella, dusted with salt and olive oil, accomplishes so much. Dressed in the colors of the Italian flag, caprese exemplifies the fresh ethos of that cuisine. The wafting, penetrating basil and the sweet, piercing tomatoes combine with the rich cheese and oil producing otherworldly satisfaction. Like a margherita pizza without the crust and heat, caprese is the perfect way to enjoy the sunset of summer.

As with any recipe of cultural significance, there will be static between purists and innovators. I generally have tremendous respect for traditions. But I’m flexible with the season and region.

With the low-acid heirloom tomatoes available today, for example, we often need to add more acid, as the tomato alone can’t stand up to the cheese and olive oil. A few drops of balsamic does the trick. There is also white balsamic, which for trademark reasons is often labeled “White Italian Vinegar” or “White Italian Condiment.” Both types are made from grapes, red and white, respectively. You can also make homemade reductions of red or white balsamic. Simply heat and slowly reduce by half. It becomes thick and syrupy, and sticks to the tomatoes, basil and cheese.

Aside from the balsamics, any red or white wine vinegar could work. And lemon or lime will get it done brightly. My favorite caprese is a mix of red and white balsamic, and lime juice.

Structurally speaking, a caprese can be stacked, layered or tossed in a bowl. If you choose to make a tower, the slice of cheese belongs at the foundation, with the basil atop the cheese and a slice of tomato atop the basil. While many caprese makers put the basil on top because it’s more colorful, I find the leaves deflect the salt, oil and vinegar from the tomato, shielding it from its much-needed dressing. 

If you prefer to serve caprese as a salad, I recommend cubing both the tomato and cheese. All those cut surfaces do a great job holding the vinaigrette. Toss together with salt and vinaigrette, and add the basil leaves last. One thing fun about the salad, you can toss the whole business into a pot of pasta (see below).

If we played our cards right last spring, we won’t run out of tomatoes or basil during these luxurious late summer days. Thus it’s the mozzarella, purchased in a sealed placenta-like bag of water, that becomes the limiting factor.

And if you run out of mozzarella? Replace it with something, presumably cheese, but maybe just don’t call it caprese. You will get called out by the self-appointed experts. You can substitute feta for a Greco-Roman salad that is most definitely not caprese. Since you went there, why not finish with chunks of cucumber and garlic or minced onion, and swap the basil for oregano or thyme? Skip the balsamic and lean on the citrus.

Or perhaps replace the mozzarella with a Spanish Manchego with a drizzle of red wine vinegar. Serve atop crusty bread and wash down with a blended red.

And don’t forget to enjoy the brief, glorious end of summer when everything is in season and perfect, like I imagine life must be on the isle of Capri.

Caprese Salad Pasta

Salad

1 lb tomato, cut into cubes

½ lb fresh mozzarella, cut into cubes

1 bunch basil leaves

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup XVOO

1 teaspoon balsamic

1 teaspoon lemon or lime juice

Pasta

1 strip bacon, cut into strips

1 pound pasta 

1 clove garlic

1 cup grated parmesan cheese

½ cup XVOO

Combine ingredients in a medium bowl. Taste, adjust salt and acid as necessary.

Bring pot of salted water to a boil. While the water heats, cook the bacon bits in a different pan. When water boils, add the pasta. Cook the amount of time specified on the package, plus a minute (not today, al dente). Drain the noodles and while still piping hot, stir in garlic, cheese, bacon and olive oil. When fully tossed, add the caprese and serve.