The caviar of tubers
Don't 'turnip' your nose at this versatile, delicious root veggie

During the “Turnip Winter” of 1917, World War I left villagers so desperate for food, they would break into barns and steal the turnips meant for cows. For similar historical reasons, the turnip has the reputation of being a “starvation” food.

The hakurei (pronounced like “samurai”) turnip is no exception, having been developed in the 1950s, when Japan was desperate to feed itself after World War II. Also known as the Tokyo Turnip, the hakurei is actually exceedingly delicious. While most turnips must be cooked into edibility, hakurei are completely delightful when raw, like an extra-juicy apple with succulent edible foliage.

Hakurei translates to “esteemed companion,” a name that is entirely appropriate. You can do anything you want to a hakurei, including nothing; you don’t even need to peel it.

The cool-weather plant grows fast – about a month from sowing to harvest – and can handle a light frost and other forms of adversity. This makes them a great fall staple at farmers markets.

They are great in salads for many reasons, including their crisp, juicy texture and the fact that they go very well with acid. Since they look like scallops, I like to feature hakurei turnips in a ceviche-like presentation, with dressing, onions and hot peppers, with or without actual fish.

My favorite way to cook our esteemed companion is in miso butter with garlic, white wine and a bit of sugar. The hakurei and miso taste like they are made for each other, and, with support from the other ingredients, create a quick, easy and glorious dish. You can use the same miso sauce as a glaze for salmon.

Getting your hands on Tokyo Turnips can be the hardest part of hakurei cookery, but they are gaining in popularity. The lily white globes might be waiting for you at market, just under your nose. 

Hakurei Turnips in Miso Butter Glaze

Two servings

1 bunch of hakurei turnips – about 6-8 in a bunch

2 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons sugar

1 tablespoon miso

¼ cup vermouth or white wine

2 cloves garlic, chopped coarsely

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

Salt

Trim the taproot that extends from the bottom of each turnip. Cut stems about half an inch above the turnip, and chop stems and leaves. Cut turnips into slices, which cook faster and absorb more glaze, or quarters, which look prettier. No need to peel.

Boil 2 quarts of water with a teaspoon of salt for the greens. If making soba noodles to serve it with, you can cook the greens in the leftover soba water. Either way, boil greens for five minutes. Drain, plunge into cold water, and drain again.

Add butter, miso, sugar and a cup of water to a pan. Turn heat to medium and stir. When it reaches a simmer, add vermouth and garlic, and then the turnips. Allow the liquid to cook down and thicken, about 10 minutes. Season with salt if necessary – the miso may contribute enough. Flip the pieces, and turn the heat down to low, so the turnips can brown but not burn. Garnish with sesame seeds, and serve with noodles or rice.