This grill is on fire
This smoky summer 'quad-fecta' is like a party in your mouth

It’s the season of outdoor grilling, brought to you by the licking flames that make food taste better. Without a fire, of course, there is no smoke. But some fires are smokier than others. Those grillers who prefer the convenience and precision found in the knobs of a gas grill probably won’t get their share of that airborne blend of aromatic oxidized particulates. Grillers who build an actual fire, meanwhile, can find themselves with more smoke than they know what to do with. 

And then there is the question of what to put on the grill. You can make an argument for many ingredients that are exceptional on the grill, and I won’t argue. But I have a formula that’s applicable anywhere produce and meats are sold, a “quad-fecta,” if you will, of corn, zucchini, green chile and meat – or similar meaty element. My vegetarian advisor suggests a large, fresh portobello cap. A port is earthy, juicy (thus smoke-producing), and structurally strong enough not to fall apart when being manipulated. It will shrink but still juice when you bite into it and has a great mouthfeel and umami flavor. You can simply oil and salt the portabello or marinate it if you want more acidity. 

These ingredients not only go great together, but each enhances the flavors of the other participants through their smoke. Even on a gas grill, corn husks will burn, zucchinis will blacken, and green chiles will blister and flavor the atmosphere, as the meat drips grease onto the flames, enhancing the smoke seasonings. I prefer a built fire, but to each their own. As the smoke rises to your blinking face, enjoy the most savory aromatherapy a set of nostrils could embrace. Put the lid down and let the smoke build up, pushing those flavors into the food.

The Veggies

First and foremost, start the grill or fire. Then, remove the butter from the fridge to let it soften. Season meat with olive oil, salt, pepper and pressed garlic. 

Trim each ear of corn by pulling about an inch of husk from tip to base, exposing a stripe of kernels. Place the ears on the grill with that stripe facing up, followed by the zucchini and green chile. 

As the kernels shrink and brown in the dry heat, they concentrate their flavor while being bathed in smoke from their own husks. After about 20 minutes without turning, the corn will be nicely browned and smoked.

The green chile, whether it’s from Hatch, Anaheim, your backyard or a local farmstead, is the soul of the grill, in part because it adds the best smoke. If you can’t find any decent specimen of the Hatch varieties, some big jalapeños will always do the trick. Grill and turn until they are blistered but not burned.

Unless the zucchini is really big, I’ll cook it whole, turning it until the outside is charred and the inside is soft. This should take about 20 minutes on medium heat. Cut into rounds before serving. 

While the vegetables are grilling, prepare the following sauce for the corn. Quantities are per ear of corn, adjusted for the fact that it will also be used on meat and other veggies.  

Corn Sauce

1 tablespoon softened butter

1 tablespoon mayo

2 teaspoons garlic 

1 teaspoon red chile powder

2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

Salt and pepper to taste

Smear it all together, like a mayonnaise-ey compound butter. 

When it’s nearly time to eat, add the meat to the grill and find a chill spot for the corn, and flip the corn so the exposed stripe of kernels faces down for a few minutes of final extra browning. Pull the ears off the grill and wait impatiently until they are cool enough to touch and not burn yourself. 

I like to rotate steaks on the same side for a few minutes before flipping them. This gives the meat a pleasing hashmark pattern. And again on the other side a few minutes before serving. 

Burger also works well in the trifecta, preferably cheeseburger, accompanied by bun, ketchup, tomatoes, pickles, onions and all that. 

When eating green chile or jalapeño, start with a nibble of the tip to figure out if it’s a hot one. If it is, carefully remove the seeds and consume responsibly. If the chile is not hot, you can eat it whole – peel, seeds and all. 

At the risk of too much micromanagement, here is an optional suggestion for consuming this meal. Start with a bite of meat or protein-like item, followed by a sip of wine if appropriate. While chewing meat, use a piece of green chile as a spoon to smear corn sauce onto the corn, and then bite the corn, chewing together with meat and hopefully wine. Then add the green chile to your mouth, followed by a slice of zucchini, and chew it all together. Enjoy the harmony of the fire-licked flavors colliding in your lips. Followed, inevitably, by another sip.