Vegging out
Taking pride in tasty meatless dishes

I am confused by veggie burgers, vegan cheese, margarine and all substitutes for animal products that seek to imitate the very thing the eater wishes to avoid consuming.

It reinforces the idea that meat eating is somehow more normal, and that vegetarians should try to hide their true selves and pretend to fit in.

Food culture on the Indian sub-continent is the opposite. There, it’s common to see restaurants proudly display their credentials with outdoor signage that announces “Veg and non-Veg” in large type. Given that India will soon overtake China as the world’s most populous nation, this dietary preference is fortunate for the Earth and essential for India’s food security.

Fortunately, Indian chefs have many tricks for making their food so satisfying. They do it with spices, sauces and lots of chopping. Imitation animal products are not on the menu, yet Anthony Bourdain, as committed a flesh lover as anyone, once said that India is the only place where he could be a vegetarian.

A meat-free lifestyle is a beautiful thing, so don’t apologize, vegetarians! Don’t try to play somebody else’s game with your dry, wannabe sausages. A New Jersey-based vegetarian friend of mine named Matthew has been texting me some of his favorite unapologetic vegetable dishes that proudly celebrate the true identities of their ingredients. Here is one of his favorites.

Lemon Chickpeas

The raspy flavor of the turmeric, the piercing bite of the lemon, the herbal aroma of the cilantro and earthy, dare I say meaty flavor of the spinach combine for a dish that is simple and complex.

Serves 2

1 medium sized onion, chopped

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons turmeric

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cubic inch ginger, grated

½ teaspoon salt

4 teaspoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon garlic powder

1 tablespoon-ish red pepper powder or flakes, as hot as you like them, for color and heat

1 16-oz can of chickpeas

¼ teaspoon baking soda (optional)

2 cups chopped spinach

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

Chopped onion as a garnish

In a heavy-bottom pan, sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger in the oil. When the onions become translucent, add the salt, lemon juice, garlic powder, red pepper, and stir it together. After five minutes add the chickpeas, including the water in the can. Add the baking soda if you want softer beans. Adjust seasonings to taste as it simmers. When you are satisfied, and the liquid is gone, add the spinach and cook until the spinach has melted into the beans. Turn off the heat.

Fill the serving plates with generous heaps of chopped cilantro. Scoop the chickpea mixture on top, and garnish with chopped onions.