Pastries with a twist
La Bonne Patisserie blends classic flavors

What do you do in Durango with a degree in French literature? You master the art of “joie de vivre” and head to La Bonne Patisserie, 3101 Main Ave. There, you’ll find delightful fare and the chance to practice your French “r” (the one that sounds like clearing your throat) when ordering croissants, éclairs or tartines.

For those not up on their French, “pâtisserie” refers to three things: 1) the products made – pastries; 2) the art of making them; and 3) the place where they are sold. “La Bonne” is the feminine form of “good.” You might know the masculine form in such expressions as “bonjour” (good day), “bon ami” (good friend) and “bon appétit” (good appetite).

Fortunately, one needn’t know French at the bakery, but bring your appetite. Nestled between 81301 Coffee and Dunn Deal, La Bonne Patisserie is open 7 a.m.-3 p.m. (or when items sell out) Thursday-Saturdays. When you walk through the door, you’ll be greeted and served by baker/owner Kate Naumann, who you may recognize from her nine years managing Serious Delights bakery. Unless there’s a long line of customers behind you, Naumann will gladly converse about ingredients, techniques and flavors.

“I’ve always had an interest in creative cooking and baking,” she said. “My grandma was a professional baker; she had my sisters and me rolling out dough since we were in diapers.”

Skills learned at home and on the job were refined later when Naumann went for training at the San Francisco Baking Institute. Now, her menu includes small snacks, breakfast or lunch treats, and fancy desserts. There is something for all tastebuds – sweet and savory alike – and for most diets, including flour power or gluten-free, vegan or the omnivore’s delight. Traditional French offerings share the stage with locally inspired creations.

“My concept is to use European techniques with Southwest flavors,” she said. “One item that embodies this is the Torpedo, a red chile croissant. The spice level is mild and grows as you eat it; the earthy, smoky red chile flavor is right up front where it should be.” Also notable is the Chile Royale, made from red chile croissant dough and filled with green chile bechamel sauce, a little nod to New Mexican “Christmas.”

In addition to bringing unique flavors to Durango, La Bonne Patisserie is investing in regional producers. Apples, pears, winter squash, carrots and tomatoes come from Animas Valley farmers. Leafcutter Farms supplies mushrooms. Pine River Microgreens add a burst of color and flavor to some of the savory pastries. The bakery purchases stone-ground whole wheat and rye flours from Mountain Mama Milling in Monte Vista.

As new suppliers emerge and seasons change, so do the offerings on the menu. Sourcing locally is not always easy, however.

“I’m still looking for a regionally grown, high-protein white flour,” she said. “Eggs, too, would be welcome.”

So once you’ve bought your pastries, how best to enjoy them? If you wish to devour them immediately (and not get croissant flakes all over your clothes and car seat), ask Naumann for a plate, find a table next door at 81301 Coffee and buy a drink to go with your pastry. This is known in French as “manger sur place” – to eat in place. Alternatively, you can get your pastries “à emporter” – to carry – carefully packed in a paper bag or cardboard box.

Whatever you order and wherever you consume it – a pair of cream puffs for your Valentine or a mini quiche in your backpack on a snowy adventure – just remember to savor each bite.