The Durango (food) tango
It has been a busy few months for the restaurant scene

After enduring the doldrums of the past couple of years, a new energy and excitement to the restaurant scene has been emerging (the 5th Dimension’s song “Age of Aquarius” is ringing in my ears). If you had asked me about that a few weeks ago, this would not have been the description that first came to mind.

Over the course of this past spring, I have found myself somewhat frustrated, feeling there is a lack of new life, new inspiration and new excitement around dining here. Too much status quo, too much just hanging on, trying to recover and bolster business that was so deeply impacted by the challenges of the past two years. That’s not to mention the major shifts in employment and staffing we have explored previously in this column. It just felt heavy and exhausting and was making me a bit melancholy.

Then it hit me one morning as I was walking down Second Avenue to grab a latte after a workout – holy cow, in reality, a lot has changed over the past few months in subtle increments. Maybe I simply wasn’t paying attention, but they have now all come together, seemingly at once. What sparked this mallet-to-the-forehead revelation was how quickly Lola’s Place, in what was the home of Cyprus Café and Eno Wine Bar, underwent major transformation this year and noticing that kind of transition in other venues across town as well. Guess I need to get out more!

Let’s back up a bit. I loved Cyprus Café and Eno, especially the patio space between the two buildings. Through several transitions and a few different iterations of ownership, this particular spot has experienced plenty of evolution over the past 24 months. As Lola’s was just starting out, it was pretty lean for such an amazing spot – only two food trucks (Cuevas Tacos and The Soup Palette) anchoring the space behind the patio, and that was pretty much it. For a long time, it made me wonder if that was the limit of the vision (or resources) for such a great location.

Today it’s a different story with six offerings available including the new Taste coffee shop, Thimbleberry Smoothie Co. (and smoothie bowls!), Mountain Stir Fry and Rokko Izakaya Japanese bowls and tapas, with Cuevas Tacos still holding down the fort. Wrapping a bow around the experience is the new, 8-seat Ska Brewing Outpost outdoor bar, where you can enjoy beer, wine and batched margaritas in easily one of the friendliest and chill settings in town.

Just sitting at Lola’s and watching people come and go, I am reminded of the very real sense of the relaxed, community vibe of “off main street.” People walking by with their dogs, catching up with neighbors for a minute while waiting for a Cuevas burrito or a salmon bowl from Rokko. I have really come to enjoy a latte from Taste in the late morning, when the sun is bright, and everything just feels fresh and calm. Reminds me to appreciate the vibe of living in our little mountain town.

This is not to imply that Lola’s is the only place making changes right now. Just last week, Matt Steffens and Brice Ward completed the purchase of 81301 Coffee from Durango Artisan Foods, which has undergone its own transition – abruptly vacating the kitchen space next to 81301 and opening the Provisions: A?Local Gourmet Market retail space at 934 Main Ave. Just down the road, Union Social House also has a new food truck and expanded menu, which opened mid-June. Another few blocks south, Farm to Summit is close to opening their new storefront.

Another food truck switcheroo to note centers around Anarchy Brewing on E. 8th Ave., which last year featured food from Juicy’s Shanty, a Caribbean and BBQ-oriented truck. Juicy’s migrated a few months ago to the VFW near Rotary Park, while Chalkboard Kitchen, with its “comfort food, elevated,” taking the spot behind Anarchy. 

For the first time last week, I ventured out and tried the new (to me) Home Slice Pizza at Three Springs and really enjoyed it. It’s more spacious than the other locations, with both a larger dining room and bar space. It was clean, bright and quiet, and simply relaxing. Also, the Home Slice on North Main Avenue is slated to move to the closed down Bird’s location. What will come of the closed Home Slice is still being worked out, but I got a few hints of what might be coming, and it is quite exciting!

Lastly, on a sad note, one more major change is on the horizon for the regional fine dining scene. Olio, the absolutely wonderful restaurant in Mancos, has announced it has been sold and will close at the end of July (and, according to the website, does not have any more reservations available until they are done for good). I truly loved Olio and always felt the kind of personal, intimate experience you could have there was truly unique. The fact that they made it so long in such a small space, in such a small town, truly reflected upon the chef and staff, and their commitment to quality and creativity. It was amazing, and I am quite sad it will be no longer.

As change reminds us, nothing lasts forever. But as we continue to emerge and grow as a restaurant community, I am continuously inspired by the hard work, intention and creativity that this town, its farmers and providers, and customers all bring to the table. I always feel better being reminded that we are all in this together, and there is so much opportunity to keep growing and changing and evolving. It’s beautiful.